The head-scarfed women smile graciously at small acts of courtesy in their holy places. A step aside to let them come or go will, from the younger ones, incite a modest smile that invariable reveals good teeth. The men, on the other hand, smile less often: they are serious, studied, and thoughtful, though gracious and unassuming. But when the men do smile, for quite a few their teeth are brown and stained and crumbling.
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